Salah El Din Citadel
In 1176 Saladin began fortifying a spur of the Mokattam Hills to defend Cairo against the Crusaders. For nearly 700 years the Citadel of Salah El Din was the seat of Egypt's rulers, and its domes and pencil minarets still dominate the skyline of Islamic Cairo, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Historic Cairo and one of the great medieval Egypt tourist attractions.
The Mamluk sultans who followed Saladin expanded the fortress with palaces and mosques, and the Ottoman governors later made it their headquarters. In 1811 it was the scene of a notorious event, when Muhammad Ali invited the leading Mamluk beys to a banquet and had them killed as they left, securing his control of Egypt. He then rebuilt much of the Citadel, adding the great mosque that now bears his name.
Why visit the Citadel?
Fortifications, Ottoman mosques and museums share the hilltop with some of the best views in the city – on clear days as far as the Pyramids of Giza. Its crowning glory is the Mosque of Muhammad Ali.
Built between 1830 and 1848 in Ottoman style, the mosque recalls the great imperial mosques of Istanbul, with a central dome surrounded by smaller domes and two slender minarets. Its courtyard features a clock tower presented by King Louis-Philippe of France in return for the obelisk from Luxor Temple that now stands in Paris's Place de la Concorde. Muhammad Ali himself is buried inside the mosque.
Getting there and around
The Citadel stands on Salah Salem Street, a short taxi ride from Tahrir Square and Khan el-Khalili. Allow two to three hours, or see it with Cairo's churches and mosques on the private Citadel, Coptic Cairo and Islamic Cairo day tour.
Below the Citadel, the historic mosques of Sultan Hassan and al-Rifa'i stand side by side and can easily be visited on foot from the Citadel area. Inside the walls, the site is divided into several enclosures, linked by gates and paved paths.
Highlights not to miss
- Mosque of Muhammad Ali: The "Alabaster Mosque" with its vast domed prayer hall, lit by hundreds of glass lamps.
- Mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad: 14th-century Mamluk minarets tiled in green, among the oldest buildings on the hill.
- National Military Museum: In the former Harem Palace, with exhibits spanning Egypt's military history.
- Panoramic terrace: A sea of minarets below, best viewed near the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
- Police Museum: A small museum with a terrace overlooking the city and the old prison cells.
Practical tips
These are working mosques: cover shoulders and knees and remove shoes at the door.
Women should carry a scarf to cover their hair inside the mosques. The site is large, with some uneven ground and steps, so wear comfortable shoes and bring water.
Best time to visit
Late afternoon haze over the city makes for atmospheric photographs.
Weekday mornings are generally quieter, while Fridays can be busy with local visitors after midday prayers. From October to April the weather is ideal for exploring the open terraces.
Accommodation and food
Al-Azhar Park, a short walk away, has hilltop restaurants with views back to the Citadel.
The park, created on a former rubbish dump, is one of Cairo's most pleasant green spaces and perfect for a sunset stroll after visiting the Citadel.
How does it compare to other Egypt tourist attractions?
The Citadel showcases Egypt's Islamic heritage – a contrast to the pharaonic sites of Luxor and Giza – and fits neatly into a day with the bazaar. The Treasures of Cairo tour combines both worlds.
For many visitors, it is the best introduction to the medieval city that grew up long after the age of the pharaohs.
In summary
Climb up for history, architecture and the finest view over medieval Cairo.
