Luxor
Temples of the living on the East Bank, tombs of the dead on the West: Luxor, built on the site of ancient Thebes, the New Kingdom capital, is often called the world's greatest open-air museum. Ancient Thebes and its necropolis form a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the richest cluster of Egypt tourist attractions.
Thebes rose to power around 2000 BC and reached its height during the New Kingdom (about 1550–1070 BC), when pharaohs such as Hatshepsut, Thutmose III, Amenhotep III and Ramesses II poured the wealth of an empire into its temples. The ancient Egyptians aligned the city with the sun's daily journey: the East Bank, where the sun rises, was the realm of the living, while the West Bank, where it sets, became the vast necropolis of kings, queens and nobles.
Why visit Luxor?
Few places pack in so many monuments: the immense Karnak Temple, the elegant Luxor Temple and the painted tombs of the Valley of the Kings. Balloon flights at sunrise and felucca sails at sunset add to the magic.
Beyond the headline sights, the West Bank hides dozens of lesser-known treasures: the Tombs of the Nobles with their scenes of daily life, the Valley of the Queens, the workers' village of Deir el-Medina and the vast mortuary temple of Medinet Habu. Even after several days, there is always more to discover, and the relaxed pace of village life on the West Bank makes a pleasant contrast with the bustle of the town.
Getting there and around
Luxor's airport has flights from Cairo and Europe; sleeper trains link it with Cairo and Aswan, and Nile cruises start or end here. Ferries, taxis and tours connect the two banks; the Luxor East and West Bank sightseeing tour covers both in a day.
The public ferry across the Nile costs very little and runs frequently throughout the day, while motorboats can be hired for a quick crossing. On the East Bank, Luxor Temple and Karnak are linked by the Corniche and the restored Avenue of Sphinxes. On the West Bank, distances between sites are greater, so a taxi for the day, a bicycle in cooler months or an organised tour is the most practical option.
Highlights not to miss
- Luxor Temple: Floodlit at night and linked to Karnak by the Avenue of Sphinxes – both feature on the East Bank tour in Luxor.
- Temple of Hatshepsut: Terraces against the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari, built for one of Egypt's few female pharaohs.
- Balloon ride: Drift over the West Bank at dawn on a hot-air balloon flight in Luxor, watching temples and green fields emerge from the morning haze.
- Colossi of Memnon: Twin giants guarding the West Bank, all that stands above ground of Amenhotep III's temple.
- Luxor Museum: A small, beautifully displayed collection, including statues found in a cache beneath Luxor Temple.
Practical tips
The Luxor Pass saves money if you plan to see many sites. Fix felucca and taxi fares before setting off.
Some tombs, such as those of Seti I and Nefertari, require separate, more expensive tickets, and photography rules vary between sites. Start West Bank visits as early as possible to avoid the heat and the tour-bus crowds, and carry small notes for tips to tomb guardians.
Best time to visit
Winter is ideal; summer days often top 40 °C, so sightsee at dawn and dusk.
October to April offers pleasant daytime temperatures, though December and January are also the busiest months. Spring and autumn are good compromises, and balloon flights operate year-round whenever the wind allows.
Accommodation and food
Historic Corniche hotels, modern resorts and West Bank guesthouses suit all budgets. Rooftop restaurants serve molokhia and stuffed vegetables with Nile views.
The Winter Palace, built in 1886, hosted the announcement of Tutankhamun's tomb discovery in 1922 and still exudes colonial grandeur. On the West Bank, mud-brick guesthouses among sugar-cane fields offer a quieter base close to the tombs.
How does it compare to other Egypt tourist attractions?
Giza represents the Old Kingdom; Luxor showcases the New Kingdom, with more temples and tombs than anywhere else in the country. The 6-day Cairo and Luxor private tour joins the two eras.
Most Nile cruises sail between Luxor and Aswan, stopping at Edfu and Kom Ombo on the way, so Luxor is usually the starting or finishing point of a journey along the river.
In summary
Three unhurried days are the minimum to do both banks justice.
