Almost every Okavango safari begins in Maun. Set on the Thamalakane River at the south-eastern edge of the Okavango Delta, this former cattle-ranching town of around 85,000 people has become the country's tourism capital and the hub for flights into the delta – a practical first stop on any tour of Botswana tourist attractions.
Founded in 1915 as the capital of the BaTawana people, Maun long had a frontier reputation, with hunters, traders and cattle farmers mixing in its bars. Today it is a sprawling, relaxed town where donkeys and goats still wander the roadsides, modern shopping centres stand beside traditional homesteads, and the steady drone of light aircraft overhead reminds you that the wilderness begins on its doorstep.
Maun is far more than a transit point. It is the best base for scenic flights over the delta and for day excursions into the nearby channels: the 1-day mokoro excursion combines a canoe trip with a game walk, and a Moremi day trip reaches Moremi Game Reserve and back before dark.
The town also gives a glimpse of everyday life in Botswana that fly-in safaris often miss. Its markets, local restaurants and churches offer a chance to meet people beyond the lodges, and the Thamalakane River, when the flood arrives, is home to hippos, kingfishers and fish eagles within the town limits.
Maun International Airport has direct flights from Johannesburg, Cape Town, Windhoek, Kasane and Gaborone, and is one of Africa's busiest light-aircraft airports. By road the town lies about 900 kilometres from Gaborone and 600 kilometres from Kasane via Nata. Taxis and lodge transfers serve the town, and 4x4 rental companies are plentiful.
Fully equipped 4x4s with rooftop tents can be hired for self-drive safaris, and many charter companies operate scenic and transfer flights from the airport. Combis (minibuses) connect Maun with Nata, Kasane, Ghanzi and Gaborone for budget travellers, though schedules can be irregular.
Stock up here on fuel, food, water and cash before heading into the wilderness, and book light-aircraft seats and Moremi campsites well ahead for July to October.
Maun has supermarkets, pharmacies, banks, camping-equipment shops and mechanics familiar with safari vehicles – the last such services before the delta and Moremi. Park entry permits for Moremi can be arranged at the Department of Wildlife and National Parks office in town. The area is malarial, so use repellent in the evenings.
The flood reaches Maun's rivers between June and August, the ideal moment for canoe trips. November to March brings thunderstorms and excellent birding.
In some low-flood years the Thamalakane hardly flows past the town, but it fills again when the waters arrive. September and October are the hottest months, with temperatures often above 35 °C.
Riverside lodges, guesthouses, campsites and backpacker hostels cater for every budget. Restaurants serve Botswana beef steaks and seswaa alongside international dishes, and several cafés are geared to safari travellers.
Many lodges along the river have gardens, pools and bars where travellers swap stories at the end of a trip, making Maun a pleasant place to rest for a day before or after the bush.
Maun is a gateway rather than a wilderness. While Chobe is reached from Kasane, Maun connects you to the delta, Moremi, the Khwai Concession and the Central Kalahari.
It is also the most convenient starting point for the Makgadikgadi Pans, about three hours to the east.
Spend a night or two in Maun for a flight or canoe trip before travelling deeper. Longer journeys also start here, including the 9-day safari from Maun to Victoria Falls via Moremi, Savuti and Chobe.