Khwai Concession
Directly across the river from the northern boundary of Moremi Game Reserve lies the Khwai Concession, an 1,800-square-kilometre wildlife area managed by the Khwai Development Trust on behalf of the local community. Its freedom from national-park rules makes it one of the most flexible safari areas among Botswana tourist attractions.
Khwai is one of Botswana's community-based natural resource management areas: the government leases the land to the village trust, which in turn sets up campsites, partners with lodges and earns income from tourism. The village of Khwai, home to a small community of BaBukakhwe (River Bushmen), sits at its heart. Because there is no fence between Khwai and Moremi, animals move freely across the river, and the wildlife is just as rich as inside the reserve.
Why visit Khwai?
Activities forbidden inside Moremi are permitted here: night drives, guided walking safaris and off-road driving to follow predators. Lagoons and floodplains along the Khwai River attract elephants, hippos and red lechwe, and the area is among the country's most reliable for African wild dogs, leopards and lions.
Night drives reveal a completely different cast of animals: aardvarks, honey badgers, servals, genets, porcupines and hunting hyenas. Walking with an armed guide focuses attention on tracks, dung, termite mounds and the small things you miss from a vehicle. And because guides may leave the track to follow a pack of wild dogs on a hunt or a leopard into a thicket, sightings here can be exceptionally close.
Getting there and around
Khwai is about 120 kilometres north-east of Maun, four to five hours by 4x4 through Moremi's South and North Gates, or a short flight from Maun or Kasane. It sits on the classic overland route between Moremi and Savuti.
An alternative road from Maun runs outside the reserve via Shorobe and Sankuyo, avoiding Moremi's park fees. Tracks along the river are sandy and, during high water, some are flooded, so experienced 4x4 drivers check conditions locally before setting off. The Khwai airstrip serves the lodges, and transfers to the camps are part of the stay.
Highlights not to miss
- Night drives: Spotlight searches for leopard, serval, civets and hunting lions.
- Khwai River floodplains: Big elephant herds in the dry months, often crossing the river in front of the camps.
- Seasonal mokoro trips: Quiet canoe outings on the river's side channels when water levels allow.
- Khwai village: Meet the community whose tourism income protects the area and buy local crafts.
Practical tips
Cross the log bridge at North Gate slowly and with a spotter. Community campsites must be reserved in advance, and a fleece is welcome on winter night drives.
Campsites are unfenced and wildlife is very active, so store food securely and stay near your tent after dark. Unlike in Moremi, there are no park entry fees, but community campsite and activity fees apply. Mobile reception is patchy, so download maps before you arrive.
Best time to visit
From June to October wildlife crowds the riverbanks, and wild dogs often den between June and August. November to March is quieter and cheaper, with superb birding.
The green season also brings impala lambing in November and December, which in turn attracts predators. April and May are a good compromise: lush, quiet and still full of wildlife, with comfortable temperatures.
Accommodation and food
Riverbank community campsites contrast with small tented lodges whose private decks overlook the floodplains; the lodges are usually fully inclusive, with breakfast in the bush and dinner around the fire.
Several mobile safari operators also set up exclusive camps in Khwai, combining the freedom of camping with comfortable bedding, hot bucket showers and meals cooked over the fire by the safari crew.
How does it compare to other Botswana tourist attractions?
Khwai pairs Moremi's wildlife with the freedom of a private concession, at lower prices than the exclusive camps of the Okavango Delta. It is drier and more open than the inner delta, yet richer in predators than many other regions.
It can be busier than some remote concessions in peak season, but the flexibility of night drives and off-road driving makes it one of the best-value safari areas in northern Botswana.
In summary
Night drives, walks and wild dogs set Khwai apart. Spend a few nights here after a day in Moremi, or see both on the 10-day Okavango, Moremi and Khwai safari, which includes a night game drive.
