Pine forests, trout streams and morning mist feel more like Scotland than southern Africa. In the Eastern Highlands near the Mozambique border, Nyanga National Park covers 470 square kilometres of rolling upland crowned by Mount Nyangani, at 2,592 metres the country's highest peak – a refreshing contrast to the savannah of most Zimbabwe tourist attractions.
Much of the park was once part of a private estate owned by Cecil Rhodes, who bequeathed it to the nation, and his former homestead now houses a small historical exhibition. The cool climate has long made Nyanga a favourite holiday retreat for Zimbabweans, and the surrounding highlands are dotted with lakes, dams and plantations. Mount Nyangani itself is regarded as sacred by local people and is surrounded by legends of hikers who vanished in its sudden mists.
Hikers, anglers and history lovers are all rewarded. Stone forts, pit structures and terraces built by farming communities between the 14th and 18th centuries dot the hills, and kudu, waterbuck and klipspringer roam the grasslands.
The so-called pit structures, stone-lined hollows once thought to be slave pits, are now believed to have been pens for small livestock. Together with the hillside terraces and water channels, they show how a sophisticated farming society adapted to the highlands. The Ziwa ruins, just north of the park, are the largest of these sites and a national monument.
Nyanga is about 270 kilometres east of Harare via Rusape. Gravel roads suit normal cars in the dry season, and trails link viewpoints, falls and ruins. Guided overland trips through the Eastern Highlands, such as the 14-day Zimbabwe expedition tour, include Nyanga and Mutarazi Falls.
The drive from Harare takes around three to four hours. Within the park, the main roads link Rhodes Dam, Nyangombe Falls and the start of the Nyangani trail, while the dramatic Pungwe Gorge and Mutarazi Falls lie further south.
Climb Nyangani only in clear weather and with a guide – mist rolls in fast. Trout fishing needs a permit.
Bring warm clothing even in summer, as temperatures drop quickly in the evenings. Register at the park office before hiking and stay on marked trails.
April to October brings clear views but frosty nights; November to March fills the waterfalls.
September and October, before the rains, often offer the clearest days for hiking, while the trout-fishing season is best in the cooler months.
Park cottages, country hotels and self-catering lodges are scattered through the highlands, and fresh trout appears on many menus.
Several historic hotels have log fires and gardens, a welcome comfort after a day of hiking in the cool mountain air.
Nyanga trades big game for mountains, complementing safaris in Hwange and the history of Great Zimbabwe – the 22-day tour of Zimbabwe from Harare links all three.
Further south, the Bvumba Mountains and Chimanimani continue the highland scenery for those who want to explore more of the Eastern Highlands.
Pack a fleece and hiking boots for a highland escape of waterfalls, peaks and ancient forts.