Samburu National Reserve
Drier, hotter and more rugged than the southern parks, Samburu National Reserve follows the palm-lined Ewaso Ng'iro River through northern Kenya. Rare dry-country animals and the colourful Samburu people give it a character all its own among Kenya tourist attractions.
The reserve covers only about 165 square kilometres, but together with Buffalo Springs and Shaba it protects a much larger stretch of semi-desert, acacia scrub and riverine forest. The Ewaso Ng'iro, flowing down from the Aberdares and Mount Kenya, is the lifeline of the region. Samburu became famous through the work of Save the Elephants, whose research centre here has studied the local elephants for decades, and through the story of Kamunyak, a lioness who repeatedly "adopted" oryx calves in the early 2000s.
Why visit Samburu?
Samburu is home to the "Samburu Special Five": Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich, beisa oryx and gerenuk, which stands on its hind legs to browse. Elephants, lions and crocodiles gather along the river, and leopard sightings are frequent.
Grevy's zebra, the largest and most endangered zebra, with narrow stripes and a white belly, survives mainly in northern Kenya, making Samburu one of the best places to see it. The landscapes are dramatic too, with red earth, flat-topped acacias and distant mountains such as Ol Olokwe rising from the plains. Cheetahs and wild dogs also roam the area.
Getting there and around
The reserve is about 350 kilometres north of Nairobi via Isiolo, six to seven hours by road or an hour by light aircraft. Buffalo Springs and Shaba reserves adjoin it, and the 3-day Samburu, Buffalo Springs and Shaba safari explores all three.
The tarred road north passes Mount Kenya, making the journey scenic, and many road safaris break the trip with a stop in the central highlands. Inside the reserves, game drives follow the river and loop through the surrounding scrub, and a single park ticket typically covers Samburu or Buffalo Springs, while Shaba is charged separately.
Highlights not to miss
- Special Five: Species found only in the arid north, all of which can often be seen in a single game drive.
- Ewaso Ng'iro River: Elephants drinking and crocodiles basking, with families of elephants crossing at midday.
- Leopards: Regularly seen in riverine forest, especially in the early morning.
- Samburu villages: Beadwork, songs and pastoral traditions of a people closely related to the Maasai.
Practical tips
Midday heat is intense, so plan drives for early morning and late afternoon and carry plenty of water.
Lightweight, long-sleeved clothing protects against both sun and insects, and a good hat is essential. Cultural visits should be arranged through your lodge so that fees go directly to the community.
Best time to visit
Wildlife crowds the riverbanks in the dry months from June to October and December to March.
During the rains of April–May and November, the bush turns green and animals disperse, but the scenery is beautiful and the reserve is very quiet.
Accommodation and food
Lodges and tented camps line the river, many with views of elephants coming down to drink.
Neighbouring community conservancies, such as Kalama and Westgate, offer smaller camps with walking safaris and night drives, while supporting Samburu landowners.
How does it compare to other Kenya tourist attractions?
Samburu adds species you won't see in the Maasai Mara and combines naturally with Ol Pejeta and the Laikipia Plateau. Another option is the 4-day Meru and Samburu wildlife safari from Nairobi.
Far fewer visitors make the journey north than to the Mara, so sightings tend to be quieter and more personal.
In summary
Head north for gerenuks, Grevy's zebras and leopards along a river framed by doum palms – the 3-day Samburu wildlife safari from Nairobi is the simplest way in.
