Two entrances, two hypostyle halls, two sanctuaries side by side: the Temple of Kom Ombo is a perfectly symmetrical double temple. Built under the Ptolemies between 180 and 47 BC on a bend of the Nile about 45 kilometres north of Aswan, it honours Sobek, the crocodile god, on one side and Haroeris, a form of Horus, on the other – a unique design among Egypt tourist attractions.
The town of Ombos was an important stop on the trade routes to Nubia, and crocodiles were once common on the sandbanks nearby, which may explain the local devotion to Sobek, a god linked to the Nile's fertility and the pharaoh's power. Parts of the temple were later damaged by floods, earthquakes and reuse of its stone, so its front half is ruined while the inner sanctuaries survive. Roman emperors added decoration until the 2nd century AD.
Finely carved reliefs include a famous panel often read as ancient surgical instruments and an early calendar. Next door, the Crocodile Museum displays mummified crocodiles from Sobek's cult.
The double layout means every element was duplicated, from the gates to the inner shrines, with Sobek's half on the south side and Haroeris's on the north. A hidden corridor between the sanctuaries may have allowed priests to speak as the voice of the god, and the reliefs still retain traces of their original colours in places.
Nile cruise ships moor right beside the temple; by road it is an hour north of Aswan and an easy stop on the way to Edfu. Not cruising? The Edfu and Kom Ombo temples tour covers both by road.
The temple stands on a low hill overlooking the river, a short walk from the cruise moorings. Allow about an hour for the temple and another half hour for the Crocodile Museum.
Many cruise ships call in the evening, when the temple is floodlit.
The site can get very busy when several ships arrive at once, so it is worth waiting a little for the crowds to thin. A guide helps to interpret the reliefs, many of which are easily missed.
Sunset and after dark are the most atmospheric.
Daytime visits in summer can be extremely hot, so evening visits are especially pleasant from May to September. October to April is comfortable at any hour.
Most visitors eat and sleep aboard their cruise ship, as on the 7-day Egypt tour package with Nile river cruise.
Road travellers usually base themselves in Aswan, which has a far better choice of hotels and restaurants.
Less complete than Edfu, its double plan and riverside setting make it one of the most memorable cruise stops between Luxor and Aswan.
No other Egyptian temple shares its twin layout, which makes it a fascinating contrast to the single-axis temples elsewhere on the Nile.
Arrive at dusk, when the floodlit columns glow above the river.