Tsavo West National Park
Black lava fields, cinder cones and crystal springs give Tsavo West National Park a landscape unlike anywhere else in Kenya. Covering around 9,000 square kilometres, it forms, with Tsavo East, one of Africa's largest protected areas and one of the most scenic Kenya tourist attractions.
Tsavo West was gazetted in 1948, together with Tsavo East, after the construction of the Uganda Railway made the region famous. In 1898 two maneless lions killed railway workers building a bridge over the Tsavo River, a story retold in books and films as the "Man-eaters of Tsavo". Today the park is known for its rugged, hilly terrain, which gives it a wilder, more varied feel than the flat plains of Tsavo East.
Why visit Tsavo West?
Volcanic scenery comes with wildlife: elephants, lions, leopards, buffaloes and lesser kudus roam the bush, the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary protects black rhinos, and Mzima Springs lets you watch hippos underwater.
The park is also excellent for birdwatching: the Ngulia Hills are an important stop for migrating birds from Europe and Asia, and bird-ringing programmes take place here each year. On clear days, Mount Kilimanjaro rises on the southern horizon, while the Chyulu Hills, among the youngest volcanic ranges in the world, run along the western boundary.
Getting there and around
The park straddles the Nairobi–Mombasa highway, about 240 kilometres from Nairobi; Mtito Andei Gate is the main entrance. Tracks are rough in places, so a 4x4 is recommended – or leave the driving to a guide on the 3-day Tsavo East and West safari.
Several gates give access from different directions: Chyulu Gate connects with Amboseli, Tsavo Gate lies close to the railway town of Tsavo, and Maktau Gate links with Taita and Voi. Kilaguni Airstrip serves the main lodges for fly-in visitors. Distances within the park are long and road conditions vary, so allow plenty of time between sights.
Highlights not to miss
- Mzima Springs: An underwater hippo-viewing chamber at the end of a short nature trail.
- Shetani Lava Flow: A vast black flow from an eruption a few centuries ago; local people named it "Shetani", meaning devil.
- Chaimu Crater: A climbable cinder cone with wide views over the park.
- Roaring Rocks: A lookout over the plains, where the wind and cicadas give the rocks their name.
- Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary: A fenced area protecting black rhinos, visited on afternoon drives when the animals come to drink.
Practical tips
Distances are long, so allow at least two days and keep to marked tracks.
Park fees are paid electronically, so bring a card or arrange mobile payment in advance. Tsetse flies can be a nuisance in thicker bush, so wear light-coloured clothing and insect repellent. The volcanic rock is sharp and hot, so wear sturdy shoes when climbing Chaimu Crater or walking at the Shetani Lava Flow.
Best time to visit
Dry months concentrate animals around water; after the short rains in November the volcanic hills turn startlingly green.
June to October and January to February are the main dry seasons, when visibility is best and animals gather at the springs and waterholes. October to December is the peak of the bird migration through the Ngulia Hills.
Accommodation and food
Lodges at Kilaguni and Ngulia overlook floodlit waterholes, and tented camps sit near the Chyulu Hills.
Kilaguni Serena was the first lodge built in a Kenyan national park, and its terrace still offers one of the best waterhole views in the country. Simpler bandas and public campsites are available for budget travellers.
How does it compare to other Kenya tourist attractions?
Wilder and far less busy than the Mara, Tsavo West links naturally with Amboseli to the west and Tsavo East to the east; the 3-day Tsavo East, West and Amboseli safari strings all three together.
Game is more scattered than in the Mara because of the thick bush, but the scenery is far more dramatic, and you will often have sightings entirely to yourself.
In summary
Lava, springs and rhinos make Tsavo West the obvious stop on the road between Nairobi and the coast. For a grand loop, the 6-day Lake Nakuru, Maasai Mara, Amboseli and Tsavo West package ends here.
