Four seated Ramesses, each about 20 metres tall, stare out across Lake Nasser from a sandstone cliff. Carved around 1264 BC, the Great Temple and the neighbouring Small Temple of Queen Nefertari and Hathor were built to awe anyone approaching Egypt from the south. Part of the UNESCO Nubian Monuments, the Abu Simbel temples are among the most spectacular Egypt tourist attractions.
Both temples were cut directly into the rock rather than built from blocks, and their interiors extend some 60 metres into the mountain. Ramesses II dedicated the Great Temple to the gods Amun-Ra, Ra-Horakhty and Ptah – and, unusually, to himself as a living god. Forgotten by the outside world for centuries and half buried by sand, the temples were rediscovered by the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1813.
As the lake rose behind the Aswan High Dam in the 1960s, the temples were sawn into more than 1,000 blocks and rebuilt 65 metres higher – a feat that rivals the original construction.
The international rescue campaign, coordinated by UNESCO between 1964 and 1968, moved the temples into an artificial hill built over a concrete dome, preserving their original orientation to the sun. That orientation creates Abu Simbel's most famous phenomenon: twice a year, sunlight penetrates the full length of the Great Temple to illuminate statues of the gods in the innermost sanctuary.
Abu Simbel is about 280 kilometres south of Aswan near the Sudanese border: three and a half hours by road – as on the trip to Abu Simbel by coach – a short flight, as on the Abu Simbel temples from Aswan by flight, or the final stop of a Lake Nasser cruise.
Road trips traditionally leave Aswan very early in the morning to arrive before the heat, crossing a long stretch of empty desert. Flights take about 45 minutes and include a shuttle from the small airport to the temples. On site, a short walk around the artificial hill leads to the lakeside forecourt facing both temples.
Staying overnight lets you see the façade glow at sunrise and catch the evening light show without the day-trip crowds. A private Abu Simbel tour gives you more control over timing.
Photography inside the temples may require a separate permit, and flash is not allowed. Bring water, sun protection and a light layer for the air-conditioned coach or early desert morning.
The Sun Festival days are unforgettable but very busy; other winter mornings are calmer.
From May to September, temperatures here regularly exceed 40 °C, so arrive as early as possible or visit in the evening. November to March is the most comfortable period.
Nubian-style lodges in the village and Lake Nasser cruise ships are the only options – both atmospheric.
Lake Nasser cruises, usually three or four nights between Aswan and Abu Simbel, also visit remote relocated temples such as Kalabsha, Amada and Qasr Ibrim that few travellers ever see.
As iconic as the Pyramids of Giza but far more remote; combine it with Philae from Aswan, or choose a longer itinerary that includes both, such as the 9-day Egypt tour with a Nile cruise.
It is the southernmost of Egypt's great monuments and well worth the long journey: no other temple shows the ambition of Ramesses II quite so clearly.
The early start is worth it: few sights in Egypt match these colossi in the morning sun.